Poori!

Loved by almost every Indian and feared for health reasons by almost everyone - "Puri", a lip smacking Indian dish popularly served with a classical "Masal", is what has been chosen to begin this series on "Traditional cooking" with. 

The Puri that is made in our place is usually made of wheat flour which is rolled into a circle and deep fried in oil and served with "Masal" rich with potato with a tinge of lemon juice (detailed recipe is not elaborated here). Apart from this, there are so many variants of this dish in various parts of our country, such as Bhatoora, Bhedvi, Thunka Puri, Malpuri, Dahi Puri, Pani Puri and.... the list goes on. But what is the real recipe of Poori? 

Sanskrit reference is found in a text called Bhojanakutūhalam, written by Raghunatha Ganesa Navahasta in 1670 AD. Of course, there are earlier references. But the verse in this text is lucid and descriptive of the recipe. It reads:

समितावेसने जीरहिङ्गुमारीचयोजिते।

घृताक्ते जलसंयुक्ते पीठस्योपरि वेल्लिते॥

घृतेन वाथ तैलेन भर्जिता पूरिका मता॥ (भोजनकुतूहलम्)

samitāvesane jīrahiṅgumārīcayojite.

ghṛtākte jalasaṃyukte pīṭhasyopari vellite..

ghṛtena vātha tailena bharjitā pūrikā matā.. (bhojanakutūhalam)

Let us analyse the above verse to learn the actual recipe.

Samitā: Godhūma - गेहूँ (Hindi), கோதுமை (Tamil), Wheat flour (English)

Vesan: बेसन (Hindi), கடலை மாவு (Tamil), Gram flour (English)

Jeera: Jeerakam - जीरा (Hindi), ஜீரகம் (Tamil), Cumin (English)

Hiṅgu: हीङ्ग (Hindi), பெருங்காயம் (Tamil), Asafoetida (English)

Marīca: काली मिर्च (Hindi), மிளகு (Tamil), Black pepper (English)

Yojite: Mixed/added

Ghṛtākte: Smeared with  ghee

Jalasaṃyukte: Mixed with water

Pīṭhasyopari vellite: Rolled over a plank (a solid, flat surface)

Ghṛtena vātha tailena bharjitā: Fried with ghee or oil

Pūrikā matā: Is called Purika

Wheat flour and gram flour are mentioned in dual number (Dvivacanam), which suggests that they should be added in equal quantity as it goes usually in Ayurvedic descriptions. To this mixture of equal quantity of wheat flour and gram flour, cumin, asafoetida and black pepper are added. This is mixed into a bolus with water and a little amount of ghee. This is rolled into a circle (though shape is not directly mentioned - perhaps it could be rolled into other shapes as well, as chefs normally innovate) and fried with either ghee or oil. 

NOTE: Contrary to the popular practice, this recepie does not emphasise deep frying. As per the reference from "Pakarajeswarah", the word bharjanam mentioned above refers to just cooking it on the pan with a little amount of ghee/oil. The word तलनम् (talanam) only refers to deep frying, which is NOT the word used here. Hence, the purika mentioned here is to be prepared similar to roti being cooked on a pan with little ghee or oil. 

Another noteworthy reference is that by Bhāvamisra. His book "Bhāvaprakāsa" is believed to be of the 16th century, a century prior to the above text. He writes:

माषाणां पिष्टिकां युञ्ज्याल्लवणार्द्रकहिङ्गुभिः । 

तया पिष्टिकया पूर्णा समिता कृतपोलिका । 

ततस्तैले विपक्वा सा पूरिका कथिता बुधैः ॥ (भा.प्र.)

māṣāṇāṃ piṣṭikāṃ yuñjyāllavaṇārdrakahiṅgubhiḥ . 

tayā piṣṭikayā pūrṇā samitā kṛtapolikā . 

tatastaile vipakvā sā pūrikā kathitā budhaiḥ ..

Here, the use of black gram is described instead of wheat flour or gram flour. According to this recipe, a bolus of black gram is initially made. Since no liquid for mixing is mentioned, it is assumed to be water, as it is done usually in Ayurvedic study. To this bolus, salt (rock salt), fresh ginger (Adrak in hindi, inji in tamil) and asafoetida are added. This bolus is stuffed into wheat flour (i.e., Wheat flour is initially to be made into a dough, into which the black gram flour with salt, ginger and asafoetida is stuffed later). This is then made into a "Polika", i.e., rolled into a circle like "Roti" or "Chapathi" (coming soon!). This is then "cooked" with oil. This is "Purika" described in Bhavaprakasa, an Ayurvedic text. The following is described as its properties.

रुच्या स्वाद्बी गुरुः स्निग्धा वातपित्तास्रदूषिका । 

चक्षुस्तेजोहरी चोष्णा पाके वातविनाशिनी ॥ 

तथैव घृतपक्वापि चक्षुष्या रक्तपित्तहृत् ॥ (भा.प्र.)

rucyā svādvī guruḥ snigdhā vātapittāsradūṣikā . 

cakṣustejoharī coṣṇā pāke vātavināśinī .. 

tathaiva ghṛtapakvāpi cakṣuṣyā raktapittahṛt ..

It is good for taste (enhances the taste buds and improves the faculty of taste), is sweet, heavy to digest and unctuous. However, it vitiates Vata, Pittam and Raktam, and harms the eyes. After digestion, it destroys Vata. When the same recipe is cooked with ghee, it is good for the eyes and pacifies Raktam and Pittam. The benefits and harmful effects have been described to enable the physician to prescribe in a personalised way to his/her patients or in general for people to choose for themselves the alterations they require.

Its properties are also described by Hārita as follows:

पूरिका घृतपूरन्तु त्रिदोषशमनं परम्। 

वृष्यं संबृहणं स्वादु क्षतक्षयनिवारणम् ।। (हारीतः)

pūrikā ghṛtapūrantu tridoṣaśamanaṃ param. 

vṛṣyaṃ saṃbṛhaṇaṃ svādu kṣatakṣayanivāraṇam ..

Harita Samhita is an ancient book written during the times of Agnivesa (same period as the original authorship of Charakasamhita), which dates back to several years BC. Referring to the Purika to be cooked with ghee, he has mentioned that it pacifies all three doshas (vata, pitta and kapha), and that it is good for the testicles (improves virility/sperm quality &/or quantity), nourishing, sweet (in vipaka) and cures emaciation.

The first reference mentioned here is from a text that seems to stress on "Ahara" (food or diet), as opposed to the next two texts which are Ayurvedic texts which lay emphasis on "Aushadha" (medicine) rather than food. So here's the final verdict: 

• The first recipe mentioned in this post is the one which must ideally be followed for regular diet. The latter is advisable for people who are weak and emaciated and must be cooked with ghee. 
• Enthusiasts are suggested to try the recipe and share experiences. It is key in bringing theory into practice! :-)

Stay tuned for more such recipes.

Upcoming next: Traditional roti!

Don't forget to drop a comment! :-)

Happy eating!

(Picture source: hungryforever.com)